Thursday, February 20, 2014

Valentine's Day, Hiking and English Classes

2/18/2014
          On Thursday, Will and I had dinner with the new JICA volunteer (Japan's Version of the Peace Corps). I had met him earlier in the day at the Pediatric Clinic Opening. He is a physical therapist working in the central hospital here. There are less than 40 physical therapists in all of Mongolia, and most of them are in the capital. Arkhangai province does not have a PT, so he is here for two years to teach the doctors and nurses PT techniques and is working with patients as well. I told him about the English classes Will and I teach on Thursdays for the hospital staff and told him he should come to them. So he ended up coming that night to the class and then we decided to all grab dinner at one of the nearby restaurants. He is super nice and really interesting to talk to. He is an avid runner and mountain bike rider and is trying to get one of his five bikes shipped here for the summer. After dinner, we invited him to come to our Valentines Day dinner the next night. 
           For Valentines Day, Will, Akira (JICA volunteer) and I went to Jen's Ger for dinner and movies. We made spaghetti and garlic bread; since the meat markets are not open, we had to use this kielbasa like meat as meatballs, which ended up tasting fine. We had wine, champagne and chocolates while we watched “Valentine's Day” and “Think Like a Man”. It was a nice relaxing evening.
2/19/2014
         On Sunday, Jen and I went for a hike. The temperature was at a nice -10F, so we decided to take advantage of it and get out into the fresh air. So we bundled up and picked a random mountain that we had yet to climb. We picked the side of the mountain that was mostly rocks, for a nice challenge and thought it would be fun to see how high we could get up it. We grabbed trees and branched to pull ourselves up the steep parts of the rocks. The cold air made it hard to breath, so we took many breaks to sit and chat on the boulders that lined the face of the mountain. It was so gorgeous out, despite the temperature. The sky (like always) was blue and without clouds, the sun was shining and there was no wind. It was an exhilarating feeling making it to the top. It was our first “rock” climbing experience. There were many points, as we were scaling the rocks, with only bushes to pull ourselves up the steep incline of smooth slippery rock where I thought, okay that's enough, let's just stop here before one of us picks the wrong weed to pull ourselves up and we tumble backwards down the rocks. But I really wanted to get to the top, so we would carefully choose our paths, looking for rocks we could grip onto and pull ourselves up on, instead of the weeds that were in the ground coming out of the rocks. Once we got to the top, I was so glad that I did not just give up out of fear half way up it. We took tons of pictures and hung out until our faces were frozen and we needed to start moving again. Going down was a challenge in itself. Going up you have things to pull on, going down, there is nothing, so most of the time was spent sitting down, sliding down and shuffling until we got to rocks that were not so vertical. We each took more than a couple tumbles and trips, but that was part of the fun. I was laughing so hard by the time we finally made it down, that my stomach was aching. On our walk back from the mountain we stopped at the ruins of an old monastery. I had seen children playing on it a couple days before, so I thought, why not. Let's get up there and walk around. We climbed from brick to wood beams until we made it on top of the monastery. We quickly realized that it wasn't the safest thing to be doing, the wood was no stable and definitely should not be walked on, so we took a couple pictures and then climbed back down. The bottom floor had these huge windows, that we decided would be a perfect back drop for a photo shoot. We took turns taking pictures in funny poses and once again I was left with a stomach hurting from laughing so hard. We then went back to my apartment to watch a movie and eat dinner. We attempted to make mac and cheese, using this spreadable cheese (the only cheese that can be found here), but it did not turn out so well.
            Yesterday, I had my English class with the Health Department staff. I run my classes in this format:
1) work as partners on a worksheet reviewing the previous weeks material
2) Activity/Game which reviews everything we have covered up until this point
3) New vocabulary
4) Activity that goes over the new vocabulary
5) 2 New Verbs and 2 new questions which they practice asking each other and answering
6) a game to wrap up the class
          Yesterday, they did a worksheet about the foods, questions and corresponding verbs they had learned the previous weeks. So on the worksheet their was a part where they had to translate the Mongolian food words into English, answer the two questions: What food do you like to eat? Do you like meat? The last part they had to match the Mongolian verbs to the English verbs : to eat, to drink, to cook and to like. They all did really well on answering the questions and matching the verbs, but had some troubles with the food names, so I reviewed the foods again and had them come up with sentences involving the verbs, food names, colors and numbers. For example, I drink four black coffees. They also took turns asking each other what food they like.
        I then had them play a game, where I would yell out a color and they would have to run around the room and point to objects that were that color. I try to get them up and moving during the class, so they don't get bored. I find that I learn better when I do activities and games, so I try to incorporate fun things into my lessons, instead of just writing vocab on the board and having them copy it down word for word.
          Next, I taught them the new vocabulary: Furniture. I walked around the room pointing at different pieces of furniture and telling them the English words for it. I then had them repeat the words and tell me what colors the furniture was. After, we had gone over the words for 20 minutes, I then had them pick up pieces of paper in which I had typed out the names of the furniture and work together to label the office. I had them label the one office I run classes in, so that every time they look at the piece of furniture they read the label. I then played a game, where I would show them a picture of a piece of furniture and they had to hold up the corresponding name of the object that I wrote on index cards and gave to them to help them study. We then sat back down to learn 2 new verbs: to want and to need and the questions What do you need? What do you want?. I used the vocabulary we have learned in previous classes to answer the questions. They practiced asking each other and then I went around the room, asking each person the questions. To wrap up class, we went over numbers (they have problems with 13,30,14,40, 15,50,16,60, etc. it is hard for them to differentiate the sounds) and practiced asking how old people are, what year they were born in and what year it is now. The classes are so much fun and after each one, I feel so good, like I actually am helping them. My class has grown in size from 5 staff members to 13 over the weeks! The new staff members said they started coming because they heard how fun it was, which made me feel so good. I really try to make the classes as interesting and fun as possible, so I am glad they are enjoying them! Each week, between mine and Will's class we have about 20 staff members learning English from the Health Department, which is awesome. I know that a lot of them were afraid to join the classes in fear of being embarrassed because they do not know any, but now more and more keep joining. I am so happy!
           Yesterday, I went to School 2 to talk to the teacher I work with about the International Creative Writing Competition that I am helping host. On March 15, all the students interested will join at one school and be given the subject they have to write about. They get one hour to come up with an essay and then we judge them based on a rubric from the competition. We send the winners of our province to UB where there is than a nation competition, those winners go onto the international competition. The winners win scholarships and awards. So starting next week, Jen and I will be holding creative writing classes to help the students prepare for the competition. It is for grades 6th and up, including university students. After I was done discussing the competition, she asked if I would help her write a grant so that she could hold a summer camp for students in the aimag. She had done this previously with a Peace Corps volunteer before me and wanted to do it again. The kids will play sports, have life skill sessions, learn English and learn about nutrition, exercise and hygiene practices. It sounds like a lot of fun and I am so grateful that she asked me to help her put it on. I wish that I worked with more children, and this will give me an opportunity to work with them during the summer. Most of my work is done with adults who have high ranking jobs (doctors, HD staff, government officials and World Vision), teaching them new training techniques to teach the other community members and children at schools, but with this I will get to directly work with the children. I am very excited. It will be a lot of work, but so worth it.
        Today, the power is out, which means no internet and no computers for the staff. So they have been playing ping pong all morning. I played in one game, we lost because of me. HaHa. I am terrible at it, so I am more than happy to just watch the tournament and cheer for them. I need to practice more before I play in a tournament here. They are intense and really good. That part of me has still not changed. I must perfect something before I start competing/playing with others. I can not stand not being good at something, let alone being the worst at it. So I will recruit one of my coworkers to teach me and practice until I feel like I am worthy enough to play in front of them. Hopefully over the course of the next 15 or so months (can you believe I have already been here for 9 months! If I get into a Masters program that starts in the Fall of 2015, I am able to leave after 24 months instead of 27 months, which I am planning on doing), this personality trait will change, and I will be able to just enjoy playing something even if I am terrible at it, but until then, I will perfect the game in private. HaHa. 
        Today is also Jen's 29th birthday, so Will and I are going to take her out to dinner and then depending on the time, I may go to play volleyball with my coworkers. It is a pretty smoggy day out, and there is no wind, so the coal smoke from the apartments and wood smoke from the gers, are just lingering in the air, so I most likely will not be going for a run this evening to save my lungs from unnecessary abuse. Most of the people here in Tsetserleg primarily use wood to heat their gers (there are no coal mines here), which is nice because it keeps the pollution from coal lower than most places, but the apartments, schools and other big buildings all use coal, which lends itself to huge smoke stacks that black smoke bellows out of all day and night. When there is no breeze the smoke just hangs in the air and casts an ugly shadow over the whole town. The beautiful blue sky turns into a grey and black cloud. Speaking of gers, I have had a couple friends ask me how Ger is pronounced. It sounds like care, only with a g in front of it, like gare, for those of you who were wondering. Ger like care.

Friday, February 14, 2014

Tsagaan Sar cont., Ice festival and Peace Corps Health Sector Explained

2/6/2014
           I just had the best time at my director's house. I have been really sick this week, I think it is a mixture between the meats, brains and mongolian vodka. So the past couple days, I have felt like death and apparently looked like it as well. My counterpart yesterday and today came down to my office to check and see how I was feeling and both times told me that I looked awful and needed to go home to rest. So when my director invited me over tonight for tsagaan sar celebration after I finished my English class with the Central Hospital Doctors, I was not to enthused. I wanted to say no, because I felt terrible and the thought of eating more meat and drinking more vodka made me feel even worse, but I knew I had to go to be polite. And I am so glad I did. She asked me how I was feeling and I told her that I had been sick and she said that she thought so. So she gave me milk tea and cucumbers (my favorite drink and favorite food) and turned on the coverage of the Olympics. No vodka was involved, thank goodness. She did give me a nice glass of pino grigio though. We both just lounged on her beautiful leather couch and chit chatted while we watched TV. Her apartment is beautiful and I mean beautiful compared to US standards. It was all deep mahogoney wood furnishings and floor, with a giant deep brown leather couch. It was decorated with Buddhist paintings and symbols, as well as pictures and furnishings from her many travels to France (my health department as an education agreement with the French Health Ministry, so she travels to France frequently for meetings and trainings). Her kitchen had a nice island and breakfast nook. It is by far the nicest apartment/home I have seen in Mongolia. Her husband was o sweet, but shy. He does not know English, so he just sat there smiling as she and I spoke in Monglish (a hybrid language that involves mixing mongolian and english words haha), sometimes we would understand each other and other times we would just laugh and try a new way to form the sentence. She asked about my family and friends back home. We shared stories about growing up. She grew up in Hovsgul, which is the most beautiful part of Mongolia, there is a giant lake, volcano, reindeer and mountains. It is the province above mine. I hope to travel to there this summer or fall, when they have Reindeer Festival. She is such a great woman. I have so much respect for her and I really look up to her. She I one of the smartest woman I have ever met and so strong. Being in her house with her and her husband tonight felt a little like being at home. She told me how much I remind her of her daughter, who she was going to visit in the capital tomorrow. She gave me new wool lined gloves and chocolates as I left. They were so sweet to me and by the time I was walking out of her apartment, I was feeling a little better. Every now and then you just need a mother's love. I am so lucky to have someone like her in my life in Mongolia. She and the other woman are so lovely and so concerned with my well being at all times, I feel as though I have 6 mothers here in Tsetserleg.

I forgot to put some stories in my last blog post, so here they are.

         My first story happened last Thursday when I was finishing up at the office and leaving for my apartment. I noticed that everyone in my office had left to go home early, around 4pm, I just assumed they were leaving early to get ready for Tsagaan Sar, and since I did not have to do so, I would stay till my normal time of 530pm to use the internet. So there I sat in the Health Department, the only person in the building, so I decided to turn my music up and enjoy the time. I noticed that it was 530pm and that I should head home to make dinner. I walk to the entrance of the building to leave and notice I am locked in. All the door in Mongolia lock from the outside, so once they are locked there is no way of getting out (a real fire hazard I must say). So, then in a fashion that is unlike the old me (for those of you who don't know me well, before Mongolia I was slightly uptight and panicked the minute something didn't go as I planned), I looked at the bag in my hand and decided well I did go food shopping on my break so I have food, there is a bathroom in the building, electricity and internet, you know what I would be fine here till Monday. I called my site mate to tell her I was locked in my building and we tried to come up with a solution. I did not know the guards phone number or how to say that I was locked in the building (a phrase that I am now learning in case this kind of thing happens again) and my coworkers were in the countryside with no cell service and my counterpart was not picking up his phone. So I began to look around the first floor and noticed that all the windows were sealed because its winter, so I could not get out of those windows. I go to the hallway and realize that if I climb on top of the heater on the wall, I can reach a window that is about half a story tall. I had also gotten my big package from my parents, which I realized would not fit through the window. Luckily, my mom always packs the contents in garbage bags, so I began to take the garbage bags out and climb onto the wall to the heater and throw the bags out the window onto the lawn. Then its time to throw my bag that contains my lap top, because if I put it on my side I will not be able to fit out the little window, which I have to go out sideways and hang onto the sill outside so I don't fall. So here I am hanging out the window thinking in my head, worst case scenario I break a leg and have to go back to the US for a little bit to have it fixed. That is not a terrible thing, so I decided to jump. I tuck my legs up, because I remember hearing on TV if you are ever in a falling elevator you should tuck your legs up so that they don't jam the floor upon impact and break. Luckily, nothing broke, I just got a bruise on my hip when it hit the window on the way out. The minute I hit the ground, my phone starts ringing, it was my counterpart wondering what I needed. I tell him the whole story and tell him he needs to tell the guard to go close the window. What does he say back to me? Nothing, he just laughs hysterically, says “that is so funny!!!, I will call and tell the guard” and then hangs up on me. I then began my 10 minute trudge to my apartment carrying a million bags that were ripping and muddy. I actually broke a sweat walking to my apartment because of the heavy load, that is the first time I have sweat in 6 months. Who knew you could even sweat in -15 degree weather? I got back to my apartment and emptied the contents of my bags, nothing was broken and all the magazines, movies, shoes and food immediately made me happy. I could not help but laugh and what I just went through and the fact that for a couple minutes I was fully content with the idea that I may have to live in the Health Department until Monday.

             My next story involves buying headphone for a local store. They are advertised and packaged as beats by dr.dre, but at only 7,000 Tukgriks, which is roughly around 4USD, I knew that they could not be beats ear buds. I asked the cashier if they were real and she said yes and pointed at the package. I smiled and paid her and walked out happy that I had new headphones, since my other ones broke and only played music out of one ear. I put the headphones in to my computer to listen to music at work, and not only were they not quality sounding headphones, the music sounded like I was listening to it under water and a million miles away. I noticed there was a little button on the middle of the wire that when I pressed it the music sounded like it was actually coming through the headphones. The only thing is in order for the headphones to work I have to keep pressing this button. So I now have a clothes pin hanging from the wires to hold the button down, because tape did not work. So in case you were wondering, no they are in fact not beats by dr.dre. The package states “Designed to reveal the full sound of today's music, including sonically demanding hip hop, rock and R&B that crush ordinary ear buds.” If by crush they mean broken, well then they did do there job. The songs have never sounded so broken, muffled and far away. haha. So the search for a decent pair of ear buds continues, more like I know what I need to ask my parents to send me in my next package. ;)
          A great thing that happened to me was that the Health Program Director for Peace Corps Mongolia called me. She called me to tell me how impressed she was of my work after reading my VRF (volunteer reporting form). It is a form that we have to fill out twice a year. We have to report each of our projects, the number of people who attended, the demographic of the people, the results and what goals it meets under the Health Sector. It takes forever to fill out, but after wards you really see how much impact you have actually had on your community. Peace Corps sets up goals and objectives for each sector. So for Health they are

Goal #1:Mongolian Community members will adopt healthy behaviors to reduce the risks and increase opportunities for healthy living.
Objectives:
1.1: By the end of 2017, 1600 our of the targeted 8000 youth and adults will adopt new behaviors to reduce the risk for non-communicable diseases
1.2: By the end of 2017, 800 out of the targeted 2000 youth will adopt new behaviors to reduce risky sexual behavior and increase healthy choices.
1.3: By the end of 2017, 1200 out of the targeted 4000 community members will reduce the spread of diseases through utilization of improved hygiene practices.
1.4: By 2017, 800 out of 2000 targeted community members will adopt new behaviors to prevent traffic and household accidents and reduce the rick of injury from accidents when they occur.
Goal #2: Service Providers will apply new skills to effectively promote healthy behavior and lifestyle.
Objectives:
2.1: By the end of 2017, 168 service providers (Hospital Staff, service providers, community workers and volunteers) will improve skills needed to carry out health promotion activities and implement the National BCC strategy, using the cycles of program development to improve project design and management.

These goals are lofty but help to narrow down where to focus when arriving at site. It is believed that only 20% of people who will attend our trainings will reduce their risk for non-communicable diseases, 30% will adopt new behaviors to reduce risk of transmitting diarrheal disease, 30% will adopt new hygiene practices, but what is great is that it is believed that 70% of counterparts will have improved practices and skills, which is really what Peace Corps is all about. Peace Corps wants to improve the medical care workers skills and practices in hopes that when we leave the country, they are able to carry on with out the help of volunteers. Peace Corps, unlike most other foreign NGOs, does not provide any type of monetary support for these countries, we are strictly only here to improve skills. We are not even allowed to fundraise for agencies. We can write for grants from the local governments, or get people to donate towards a project, but we have to prove that what was donated was only used for a single project (for supplies, etc). No one can be paid for their time or an agency given a check. Which is sometimes difficult to explain when agencies come up to you asking for money to help them buy computers or build a new classroom. We are not allowed to, which is so hard to say to them.
          But back to the reason why I wrote all of that, after reading my VRF, the Health director was really impressed and she said that she got so many “magical memories” from what I wrote. She is Mongolian, and not fluent in English, what she meant by magical memories, was new ideas. She loved what I have been doing at my Health Department and invited me to go to a Project Design Training, where I can network with people and help get my one project off and running. The project she was inspired by was how I am working with local doctors, school teachers and HD staff to come up with a new Health curriculum for all grades. Health classes need to take place in schools, it is key to changing behaviors. So I have sat down with numerous school doctors and handed out three surveys to assess the needs of the community and of the children. My hopes are to get the UNFPA to publish our lessons into textbooks that the teachers and students can use and most importantly, PC volunteers. Being a health volunteer in the PC is such a difficult job. TEFL volunteers have set schedules of English classes they teach in their schools, Community Youth Development volunteers have books and lessons they are supposed to run in their schools, we health volunteers are sent to HD and hospitals, most of us are not doctors or nurses and told to educate the doctors and nurses on American medical techniques and start health promotion campaigns. No guidelines, no schedule, no ideas, and no outline on how to do this. We are supposed to just conduct needs assessments and come up with project ideas, pitch it to our directors and try to find grants and people to work with, but as you know, doctors, nurses and HD staff are busy! They already have a hectic full time job, so sitting down to try two talk and make projects is next to impossible, unless you have a really motivated CP who is willing to work overtime with you. My idea is to get these books published and then have PC volunteers carry out the lesson in schools with their counterparts. The lessons will already be made and translated in to Mongolian and English. This will lesson the work load and will be something easy to do the first year you are at site and trying to get adjusted to life and work in a foreign country. Also, many health volunteers do not work in schools, so this would be an easy way to get into the schools straight to the students who need the information. So this is going to be my big project while I am here. I don't know if I will see the books be published before I leave, but I hope to have all the material and lessons laid out and to have the next volunteer be able to take over and complete the project. She also said that she would like me to make a tool kit (packet and materials) that will be given to the new volunteers about how to work in your HCA (host country agency, where a volunteer works)without adding extra work to them. A lot of volunteers come into the PC with all these grand ideas about what they want to change and how they can help, which is not surprising, very motivated intelligent people join Peace Corps, it is not for the lazy. But what I found is that these agencies want help improving themselves, they do not want to be told what to do and how to do it. We should not be adding extra work to their schedules, we should just be improving the work they already have to do. So instead of coming up with new trainings, look at the training schedule they already set up for the year and ask those people who are running them if they would like help or if you can come up with an interesting activity that could be added to make the training more interesting. She loved that this is how I was working with my HCA and thought that this is how all health volunteers should be working with in their HCAs. So now I am coming up with activities and advice that will be given in a booklet to the new health volunteers, which is pretty exciting.

2/7/2014

        Today I was given a piece of chocolate from one of the doctors that I share an office with. I popped it into my mouth, took a bite and realized it was full of vodka. And I mean full, the vodka poured out in liquid form. It had to have been half a shot in it. She laughed as I coughed from the surprise. I will never put a whole piece of chocolate in my mouth again. New rule to add to my list: always check to make sure the chocolate doesn't contain a shot of vodka inside. I can not even handle the taste of vodka anymore. I am so over it as an alcohol, can they please find another beverage to obsessively drink? Haha.
Also, I was told today to get into a car because we would be going to an Ice City in the countryside. In traditionally Mongolian fashion, they messed up the dates, tomorrow we will be going to the Ice Festival (not city). I am happy that the date was mistaken this time because now I know to dress warm. I am told that we will be making ice sculptures. Each workplace has to make a sculpture, it is a contest. When I asked my counterpart if he or anyone in the Health Department knew how to make an ice sculpture, he said “no, but we will have a saw, so it can't be that hard.” So this should be interesting, I can't wait to see this competition go down. I just love the Mongolian attitude, everything is just for fun and everything is doable in their minds. Of course we can sculpt ice, we have a saw. In America we pay for people to make ice sculptures, here everyone just tries and sees what they can do. I have never met so many people who are willing to try new things with such enthusiasm and not a care in the world about how it turns out and what people will think. It is so freeing. I have never felt more comfortable with myself in my life. Everyone is just so happy and loving of themselves and others no matter what, I wish people in the US were more like this. Everyone is comfortable in their own skin (sometimes I wish they were less comfortable, like when people just squat down and pee next to you when you are in the park, or just ripping off their clothes to change in the middle of the gym instead of using the bathroom. Nudity is just not scene as a problem here. But hey, if they are comfortable flaunting what they've got, who am I to judge. Flaunt away! Go Mongolians!
         One thing I do wish they would change is that the market and restaurants remain open during Tsagaan Sar. I was shocked to find out that the meat, vegetable and fruit market will be closed until March and so will most restaurants. The reason: people will be eating buuz they made all month. I am not okay with that reason, are they aware that they have an American, name Brittany living in their town who can not cook? I really rely on the restaurants as a source of nutrition. The only real meals I can cook are breakfast and then stir fry and vegetable soup. But since the vegetable market is closed, the only vegetables I have access to are potatoes and onions, not the best for a stir fry and really makes a tasteless soup. Also, no fruits! That is what I ate for breakfast and no meat. I never really ate meat, but now that I know I can not get it, I am craving it. So I went to one of the only little stores that was open to see what it offered food wise. I came home with an assortment of fruit baby foods, great for breakfast and a couple of cans of pickled vegetables, that I am hoping if I wash and add a lot of stir fry sauce to will be fine. They are already cut up into nice little pieces so really it cuts down on prep time. I was also able to find a couple cans of tuna and some seaweed, I will make a poor version of sushi with it, and also incorporate the pickled vegetables in it. I bought rice and ketchup as well. Well there is a meal right there, Ketchup Rice. This month may be a little rough, but at least I have great snack items from my parents that will help supplement my meals (dried fruits, trail mix, granola bars, FLUFF, oreos and instant soup packs). No one is making bread (all the bread here is hand made at bakeries) because of the holiday, therefore stores do not have it. Thank goodness my parents sent me bread mixes in my package this month! That is the end of my food rant. March can not come quick enough!
2/10/2014
        On Saturday, I went to the Ice Festival, which was held on the river about 10 minutes away from my apartment. All the members of the Public Health Department of the Health Department were going to go together (I am part of that Department). The Arkhangai Health Department has four branches: Public Health, Social Health, Clinical Health and the Adolescent Center. I was told to meet at the Health Department at 10am and we would leave from there. The two Health Department drivers were going to drive us there in the HD SUVs. I bundled up and was there around 1015am, knowing that we would be running on Mongol time, not real time. I went to my office to work on a project while I waited for everyone to get to the HD. At 1130am we were still all sitting in the HD waiting to leave. My counterpart called me and said that he would be there in 10 minutes. Mind you my counterpart literally lives next to the HD, so why is was an hour and 40 minutes late is beyond me. Haha. At about 12pm, Ariuk tells me that the SUVs are not working because it is so cold, so the drivers are trying to get them to work. He takes me into the guards Ger to stay warm and then leaves with the other men to try to help the drivers get the cars started. For about an hour, I drank milk tea and attempted to play guards with the guard and his wife. A couple of the other woman came into the Ger to get warm and sat down and played cards with us too. They would each take turns being my partner to help me through the game which I understood none of. I could not understand what the rules were or how to play even though I watched about 10 rounds of the game. I could not see a pattern or any type strategy to win. So eventually I just gave up and let my partners just play for me. It was really fun and a great bonding experience for me and the guard. He is such a sweet old man, he kept offering me candy and dried yogurt curds. 
           Finally, at about 1pm, we started to leave. The SUVs would not start, so Ariuk and one of my coworkers (the only two staff members with cars) walked home to get there cars and we all took turns piling into the cars and be dropped off at the river. It took both of them three trips back and forth to get everyone there, but we we all made it, just as the open ceremonies were ending. We made camp in the forest, where all the other workplaces were. Each school had a team, the police, fire department, road and sanitation and various other places I can't remember. The Ice Festival was a big competition among all the places. Through out the day, there was a hockey match, curling competition, ice croquet, tug of war, ice sculpture competition and a relay race. I was part of the hockey and tug of war teams. It was so much fun.
           When we first got to our “camp site”, we were all given Araig, which is the fermented mares milk. The first sip is always a shock to the system, but eventually, after 5 or so sips, your taste buds get used to it and kinda sort of start to like it. One glass is enough for me, but Mongolians love it, so they were definitely having refills of it. We then went on a search for more branches for the fire, it is bad luck to pull branches off of trees, so we had to go into the forest where all the other hundreds of people who were also looking for wood were, to find branches that had fallen to the ground. A couple of times, I wandered off by myself and definitely pulled some branches off of the trees. It was necessary. We then went back to the camp site and drank some of the country tea and hot Seabuckthorne juice. It is the Mongolian National Beverage (that is what the bottles say). I love it, so I had a couple mugs full. We then had some bread and buuz. After we ate, I met up with Will and Jen and we walked around and took pictures of the ice sculptures and watched the different sporting events going on. We made a bunch of new friends who wanted to take a million pictures with us and take shots of vodka (of course) with them. I now just tell people that my stomach is sick, so they don't make me take a whole shot. I touch the vodka to my lips, make an offering to the land and sky and then politely pass the shot glass back to the pourer. This seems to appease them, thank goodness. =) I ended up meeting the web page designer for the Government here, a couple men who work for the sanitation department, a social worker and two men who run the fitness center. They all tried to use English when talking to us. It was nice to see how thankful they were that we were here in their country helping out their people. It is times like those that make me so happy to be a volunteer in Mongolia.
           I was so excited to be able to play hockey! They had two rinks marked on part of the river and that is where the tournament was held. The hockey sticks were made from broken pieces of desks. They were literally metal and wood. The only part that touched the ice was the part where the metal piece curled up to meet the wood. It was nearly impossible to actually hit the puck, you more had to scoop and hope you made contact. At one point, the goalie from the opposing team took a big swing and the metal part of the “stick” flew in the air and missed my head by inches. Before I went onto the ice, the Physical Therapist at the health department tried to talk me out of playing, saying it was dangerous and she thought I would get hurt. But I assured her that I knew how to play hockey and that it would be fine. After the metal flew by my head, I kept my head up the entire time and really tried not to bend that low. I was not willing to get my eye poked out just to stop the puck. We were all in so many layers and just in winter boots, so everyone was falling while they tried to move their legs to run after the puck. It was hilarious. We ended up getting out in the first round, next year we will actually practice for it.
           After hockey, we went back to our camp, where they had built a big bonfire and were cooking countryside tea, which was black tea, salt and water from the river. We warmed up a bit by the fire and then walked around some more. Towards the end of the day it was time for the Tug of War Competition. After watching the Mongolians compete, we decided we needed to make an American Team. We told this to my counterpart, who said we could all compete as part of the Health Department, that the other workers said to go ahead and let us do it. So Jen, Will, Mike, Marc and I, an one of my coworkers, made up the “American” Team. Everyone was laughing and taking pictures of us. They cheered us on and we ended up going through 3 rounds of Tug of War and were in the finals. It was us (all small Americans compared to Mongolian men) against of team of very large Mongolians. We pulled and pulled, but finally got defeated, as we were all pulled to the ground and across the line. We won second place out of 8 teams. We were so excited that we beat all the teams ( I remember thinking in my head wow that was a lot easier than I thought it would be), and when I ran over to my counterpart to celebrate, he said that he had jumped in two of the times to make us win. He said he really wanted to see me win, so he would jump in at the end to help us pull. We asked, how did the judges not see or realize there were 7 people instead of six, he simply said “they are so drunk, they would never notice.” Haha, so really would we have won without my former MMA fighter counterpart? Probably not, but no one ever has to know we had 7 people instead of 6. haha.
          Shortly after tug of war, we went over to watch the finals of the hockey tournament, but to our surprise, since the temperature had been rising, the ice was melting! You could see the ice melting and the water quickly moving towards the cars and all the ice sculptures. They kept moving up river as the water crept closer, trying to keep the tournament going. Eventually, they had to move the last game to another place because the ice had melted! It was the oddest thing, it reminded me of the scary movie Fog (I think that is the title). Because there was fog coming up form the ice and it was slowly moving towards us. So creepy. People had to move their cars back so they would not get stuck in the river. It was crazy. Jen and I just stood there in disbelief as the ice just melted away into the river.
          This was also around the time I was interviewed by the local TV station about the Ice Festival. Ariuk acted as translator, of course, while the reporter asked me questions about the Ice Festival and about winter festivals in America.
             The last event was the relay race, which my counterpart was competing in. The team consisted of two men and two woman. The women had to sit on sleds and be pulled by the men around a course. First, the first man had to sprint and pull the first woman about 100yds where they then had to bounce a soccer ball onto another ball by using snow to build a sort of holder for it and get it to balance on it. Then the second pair went about 50 yds, where the male then had to jump on the sled and pull himself using a rope about 300 feet. Then sprint back to the beginning. The Health Department got first in the relay races! They were very excited! Finally after being outside all day, we headed home around 7pm. I was frozen at this point, but had so much fun! I can not wait till next year!
2/14/2014
          Happy Valentines Day everyone! Yesterday, I got to go to the opening of the Pediatric Clinic in my town. It will be used to treat children 12 years and under with respiratory infections and dental problems. Instead of having to go the Pediatric Hospital, they can come into the clinic as an outpatient and receive treatments. They had a tour of the new facility and each specialized doctor talked about the new equipment they have and how each department will run inside the clinic. Everyone was so excited and proud of the clinic. I actually got teary eyed, listening to the Hospital Director and my Health Department Director explain what the impact will be on the children of the community. Child mortality has been increasing, so they are desperately trying to combat it. During the ceremony, my director introduced me to the doctors and nurses who will be working at the clinic and told them about the projects I am working on and how she would like them to help me with certain ones. After the speeches, we were all invited to try the different foods and drinks they will be serving for the inpatients in the pediatric hospital. I drank pea and beet juice, not sure what they think that helps, but I am sure that no child will like it. Haha. After the food I was then ushered into another room where the infection control doctor and lead epidemiologist (my counterpart's wife, they are truly a power couple) explained to me how they disinfect the rooms and materials used in the rooms. After that, we saw demonstrations of how the new equipment would be used, which involved real children and their mothers. It was really interesting to see the techniques they use to remove phlegm from babies throats and lungs (that is a little sarcastic but actually interesting too). I am just not a fan of spit, so I had to divert my eyes a couple times. At the end their was a power point presentation about the HD Adolescent Center Director's trip to Korean Health University. She showed pictures of the hospitals and equipment they use and shared some new techniques and skills she learned during the training. It was a really fun day and I am so glad I was invited to be a part of it. The babies were so cute, and I hope to be able to volunteer on weekends there, to just play with the babies and speak to their moms about different health problems. Also, I want to talk to the hospital director about doing some activities in the Pediatric Hospital with the children who are there for weeks and months. Just like card games and movies with them.
            Today, I finished my recommendation form for the hospital to get a PC volunteer. I think it would be awesome to have another health volunteer to work with her in town. So I wrote up a recommendation and sent it to the Health Director of PC. I really hope it gets accepted! I then went to lunch with 6 of my coworkers at one of the local restaurants. I taught them new English phrases and questions and they taught me Mongolian ones. It was so much fun and the food was delicious!
          My English classes this week went really well, I always have a blast teaching them. This week we reviewed numbers and foods and then had colors and furniture to the lesson. Next week, I will have them go around the health department and label all the furnishings so that whenever they look at them they can read the English word and associate it with the furniture. I did this in my host family's house and it really helped me to remember those words. After my class on Thursday night, I helped my counterpart translate different medical terms from Mongolian into English. For the longest time, I kept rereading the same Mongolian word, looking it up in the dictionary, but could not for the life of me figure out what it meant. The definition made no sense and I could not find it on the internet either. And then finally it hit me, their was no equivalent and the word was and English word spelled out with the Mongolian alphabet. The word: Proctology. I then had a fun time explaining what this job was to my counterpart. Hahaha. I knew when I would pronounce the name that it sounded so familiar. I kept saying “Proktogi”, which is how it was pronounced using the mongolian alphabet. Then it finally hit me. After, reading a couple of slides in which that word was, it completely made sense. Mystery solved. Proctology.
          My counterpart's wife just adores me. She is only two years older than me and always tells him how she wants to live with me and be my friend. She is so sweet! Next weekend, I am going to go over to their house and make cupcakes with her and daughter, thanks the mix and frosting my parents sent me. Their daughter loves the color pink, so it is perfect that the frosting is hot pink and I have pink sprinkles. I think it will be so much fun!
           This week I have also started running every evening. The days are longer now, so that it is now light until 630pm. So as soon as I get out of work, I bundle up, put my hiking boots on and go for runs through the mountain passes. I just love breathing in the crisp air, although I can only run for about 20 minutes, because I think that my lungs actually freeze up. It becomes very painful to breathe after that time period. The one good thing about running in -15F is that basically your legs are numb to start with, so leg pain and muscle tightness is not really a problem at all. If only the air wasn't so cold, I feel like I could run forever! I only slipped once this week on ice while running which is amazing because I think I slip at last twice a day walking to and from work. Running on the treadmills at the fitness center has proved impossible, because everyone crowds around me to watch me workout, which I do not like. When working out, I just like to be alone and process my thoughts, which is not possible when 5 people are trying to speak English or Mongolian to you and taking pictures while I am sweaty. Not pleasant, so I had to take it outside, where no one else is.

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Dinner with the Ambassador, Road Trip, Tsagaan Sar and a Hair Cutting Ceremony

1/17/2014
         Yesterday, was the opening ceremonies for National Mothers' and Childrens' Mortality Awareness Year in Mongolia. 2014 will be focused on decreasing childrens' mortality as well as pregnant womens'. Last year, no women died during childbirth which was a very big deal for the country and this year they hope to have the same success and decrease child mortality. The Health Department put on an opening ceremony to kick of the year's new goal. The first part of the ceremony was giving out awards to the soums hospital directors and governors who had improved mortality rates. Each governor whose mortality rates decreased significantly won a new 32 inch flat screen HD TV for their government building. The hospitals were given monetary prizes as well as a new TV. The top three hospitals received 5 million, 4 million and 3 millions Tukgriks for their hospital. After all the awards were given out, it was time to officially begin the ceremony. School #1 children preformed a song to begin it and then a speech was made by my director and various other people of importance in the field of pediatrics and gynecology. Each soum's governor, head pediatrician, head gynecologist, hospital director and accountant were invited to the even. I sat in the front row next to my director and her assistant. I even got a special pin signifying I was someone of importance at the event. HAHA. The only other people who received the pins were the hospital directors and governors. I now introduce myself as a doctor because no one understands why I am working at the Health Department if I am not a doctor. I was advised by my coworkers to just tell people I am one, because they will be more likely to listen and help me. So from here on out I am a “doctor”. =)
        After the ceremony, I went back to work to meet up with Will to teach our English classes for the hospital doctors. Since the ceremony was today, they decided to hold meetings with the doctors while they were in town, so our training rooms were not available to use for classes. We had to cancel our classes, but we stayed for the three people who had already showed up at the HD for lessons. We went to the kitchen at used that room to just practice conversations with the three women. I practiced speaking with two women who are ambulatory OBGYNs. They were so much fun and so sweet. I think they will be my new best friends. Their English is not bad either, which helps because we can actually have conversations. One of the woman's father died on Christmas so she was telling me how hard it has been and how sad she was feeling. I then told her that my Uncle had passed away while I was here and it is very hard on me too. We shared our feelings and stories and it was such a great experience. She made the wise point that “people will never understand how you feel when a family member dies because they did not have the same connection you did with that person, even another family member”, which really resonated with me. It is so true, we each have our own special connections with people and although we may have all felt their love, we all mourn in a different way and for a different reason. When someone passes away, you lose a little part of yourself that was attached to that person, which I think is why the idea of death is so hard to grasp/overcome. But that is also the beauty in relationships, having those special moments with people that only you understand/feel; that is what I believe relationships are formed on, those little moments that no one else has with that person, those special times are what makes it so hard to lose someone you love. It was amazing to hear that out of someone who is so different than me and lives in a culture that is the exact opposite of the United States is most ways. The emotions attached to love and death remain the same in all cultures and is something everyone can understand. It was really an overwhelming experience that quickly ended with hugs and a quick “I'm so sorry” to each other. In Mongolia, if someone passes away the family does not celebrate any holidays that year. They said it is in respect of the people who have lost their loved ones, it is a time for mourning and to be able to show your emotions, whatever you are feeling. She said that this is especially true when an elderly person dies, losing that figure in your family is very hard on the families, especially during the holidays. Which I am sure anyone who has ever lost a loved one, knows what the first view holidays are like. What I think is interesting is that instead of celebrating that person's life or being happy for the other families you have around you, they are fully consumed with grief and mourning for that year, and then move on. It is something that I am still thinking about and not sure what my opinion is on it.
         After our conversation, the doctor invited me to go to fitness with her. Here they call going to the gym or working out, going to fitness or fitnessing. I tried to teach her the proper way to say it, but deep down its fun to say I am going to fitness. I think I will forever use this term now. First of all, when she said their was a gym here, I literally squealed with joy. Where has this place been hiding?!?!? She told me that it is only open during the days so that is why I have never seen it. I am working while it is open. But she is good friends with the owner who gave her a key to work out after she is done working at the hospital at night. I learned for about $12 dollars I can have a gym membership for a month there. So we went to my apartment so I could change and headed over to the gym. I walked in and immediately was jumping for joy when I saw there were two treadmills, an elliptical, bike, and a ton of weight machines! We ended up working out for about 2 hours with a couple of her friends who were worked at the police station (2 were officers, 1 was a lawyer and 1 was a driver). The men were so funny and said that they would like me to teach the English (although they did know some, enough to be able to get their points across) and said that they would teach me Mongolian. We decided that on our lunch breaks three times a week we will meet at the gym and workout and teach each other. They are all fitness buffs and were teaching me exercises and giving me pointers. I can't wait to start our lessons at the gym next week. So at about 930pm I was back home and sore. I was is such a great mood, I did some yoga, ate a little yogurt, took a shower and went to bed.
       I woke up today in such a great and energized mood! It's funny how a little exercise and running can really just bounce you back into positivity. I am so excited to start running again everyday and lifting weights! Wahoooo!! I will still be doing yoga every morning because it really does put me in a great mindset for the whole day. Things are getting better and better here!

1/18/2013
         Last night, Jen, Will and I had dinner with the Ambassador and another staff member of the Embassy. We went to a Mongolian restaurant and chatted about what is going on in Mongolia currently and what she is working on now. We also talked about her time working at the Embassy in Iraq and what a typical day at the Embassy is like. We learned about the food in the cafeterias, what she does in her spare time (runs marathons and experiments in the kitchen). We shared stories about how different cooking in Mongolia is and how the Peace Corps has changed us and what we are looking to do in the future. It was a lot of fun. She made us homemade chocolate chip cookies, oatmeal raisin cookies and gingerbread cookies. We each got two dozen. The other staff member (he is in charge of budgets and PR for the Embassy) made us lemon bars for dessert. They were so delicious. He also brought me the latest Adirondack 46ers Hiking magazine. His family has a house in Lake Luzerne. It was so funny to hear where it was, because I have spent many a summer days laying out on the beach his family's home is on. They also brought us magazines, books, planners, pencils and other office supplies to use! =)
 
1/29/2014
       This past weekend, Will and I went on a road trip to visit our friend Ryan (he was in my health training group over the summer). Our trip started with a 7 hour meeker ride to the capital, where we then had to find a cab to get us to the other bus station where we could get a meeker to Ryan's town. We ended up finding a cab, which because we were American over charged us and took us on the longest route ever 1.5 hours, it should have only been 30-45 minutes. But he was trying to run up the kilometers on his meter so we would have to pay more. It ended up costing us $40 USD, which is 4 times how much it usually costs, but we couldn't get out of it, no matter how hard we tried to talk to him about jipping us. So in the end we handed over the money, happy that we were finally out of the taxi and ran into the bus station to buy tickets for the next meeker out to Baganuur. Luckily for us, a meeker was leaving as soon as we got there, so we pushed our way through the line for tickets, which is always a pleasant experience. Mongolians don't understand the concept of lines, there will be what appears to be a line, but all of a sudden people push in, come from all sides and it quickly becomes a mosh pit. So I stood outside of the pile of people with our bags, as Will pushed through the line to buy the tickets. We jumped into the meeker outside and were on our way. About 2.5 hours later we were arriving at Ryan's apartment, looking forward to a fun weekend. We had a blast, hanging out in his apartment playing card games and catching up on all the latest PC gossip. I made brunch every morning, mimosas included.
          The first night we made tacos for dinner, which were delicious. His town is right outside of the capital, so he has so many food options available to him. There was bacon and salmon in his supermarket! In Tsetserleg we are over joyed when chicken shows up randomly in our market. The second night, we were invited over to his land lord's house to help make buuz. Buuz are like Mongolian steamed dumplings. We were horrible at it, and were only allowed to make buuz that we would be eating ourselves. Once we made buuz for ourselves, our job was done and we just sat and chatted with the family, while they made the buuz that would be eaten during Tsagaan Sar. All the families have been making buuz like crazy because of Tsagaan Sar. Tsagaan Sar is the White Month, which is the lunar new year (Chinese New Year). It is their biggest holiday, and each family makes thousands of buuz. Thousands. They will make buuz for days, in preparation of the holiday. Tsagaan Sar is set according to the lunar calendar, in connection with the Tibetan Losar, usually in January or February. Tsagaan Sar means "White Month", which begins with the new moon rising. The night before the day of Tsagaan Sar is called Bituun, the Mongolian name of the new moon and is a sort of “rebirth”. The new moon, giving birth to a new year.
         Mongolians cook three important dishes for the event. Families make hundreds of buuz (steamed dumplings made of beef, onion and fat). Buuz are kept frozen until they are steamed for the guests. Boov – biscuits made of flour – is the second main dish to be on the table. The biscuits are about thirty centimetres long and four centimetres thick, and they are stacked on a plate with each level laid out in a triangle or square shape. Layers have to be odd numbers – three, five, etc – as the odd numbers represent happiness. The older the family members, the higher the stack of boov. During the summer months families would have already prepared many dairy products such as cheeses and hard curds (these are white foods, to match the White Month) which would decorate the stack of boov, interspersed with small sweets. Lastly, almost a whole sheep’s back, particularly with a big fatty tail – uuts – would be cooked for the Tsagaan Sar. Mongolians try to cook a sheep with as big a tail as possible, wishing the family wealth and prosperity. However, sheep with bigger tails cost more at this time, which somewhat contradicts the prosperity idea. Many Mongolian families go into debt throwing these parties.
         Before eating buuz and uuts, Mongolians first offer them to the God, the sky, the land, and mountains. In a small family circle the celebration starts and they play special Tsagaan Sar games with sheep or goats’ knucklebones, and tell long tales and sing songs. The celebration starts when younger people visit older ones to pay their respects. Usually children visit their parents first and then other older people. The younger ones greet their elders by putting their hands out, palms upward, under the other's forearms. Another greeting custom is that the people exchange their snuff bottles, offering them with open right hand while touching under the right elbow with the open left hand. Men have quite large bottles made of expensive stone, women’s are smaller. After receiving a snuff bottle a man will normally open it and take a pinch of snuff, sneeze appreciatively, then return it, but a woman should not open the bottle, she should just sniff the part-open cap and give it back.
          After the greetings, visitors are given a cup of milk tea. It is a custom that guests are first served with a cup of tea without being asked. The family steams buuz for the visitors, and guests try some meat and dairy products but no one touches the boov. Mongolian shimiin arkhi (vodka made of cows milk) and airag (fermented mare’s milk or kumiss) is served. Tsagaan Sar lasts for about a month in total. In the first three days of Tsagaan Sar people should visit the primary members of their family or important people among their friends. Through out the rest of the month people visit their friends homes eating more buuz. This Tsagaan Sar is the year of the horse, (which happens to be my birth year symbol), more specifically the year of the wooden horse. This means that with year's zodiac sign the same as the year's designated animal, it is believed those born under the wooden horse zodiac will have a mixed year. People born in the year of the horse are said to be a bit like horses: animated, active and energetic – they love being in a crowd. They are quick to learn independence – foals can walk minutes after birth – and they have a straightforward and positive attitude towards life. They are known for their communication skills and are exceedingly witty. After some researching about that meant I found that the Mongol ruler Genghis Khan was born in the year of the horse and “While they are said to be stable, adventurous and extremely energetic, this year will present some difficulties for those who claim the horse. According to Chinese philosophy, the Year of the Horse deals with fire, wood and energy elements promising a year of success for fire element industries, such as oil and gas, airlines and restaurants, but also predicts a year of conflict, market fluctuations and natural disasters. Years of the wooden horse are associated with warfare.” So not really sure how this year is going to play out now that I know all that. Haha. I still don't understand what this means to all other people who were not born in the year of the horse. I will make sure to ask my coworkers what this all means for the world at a whole.
          On Monday we headed back to the Ulaanbaatar to do some shopping. Will and I stayed at a guesthouse for the night and met up with two of the other Health volunteers for breakfast at our favorite cafe. It was great to catch up with them and exchange more stories. I love when I get to see the other volunteers. We grew so close over the summer and then were all put in different provinces all across Mongolia, so whenever we have the chance to meet up, we do. Tuesday afternoon, I got back in a meeker to go back to Tsetserleg. The driver knew who I was (I had no idea who he was) and kept introducing me to everyone who would get in the meeker. He was so sweet. He bought and ate dinner with me at the rest stop.

1/31/2014
       Today is the official start to Tsagaan Sar. Today is the day where everyone will visit their families houses and then tomorrow they visit their friends. Most of my coworkers went to the countryside to visit their families, so they will not be around this weekend. I am going to go around with Jen's hasha family this afternoon to visit their family members. We are supposed to wear our dells for the holiday. Today I practiced and went over the different greetings I am supposed to do when visiting peoples' houses. There are so many rituals, I hope I remember them all and don't offend anyone at the parties!

2/1/2014

           Yesterday afternoon, I met up with Jen and her hasha family. We ate buutz and other traditional mongolian food, including goat brain/head fat (or cow), potato salad, various meats and candies. The brain was surprisingly delicious. Jen and I went for seconds of the brain. When layered with the meat, it was a nice little sandwich. Of course there were vodka shots. We were expected to do 2-3 at every house. Luckily, there was a lot of eating in between. We visited four homes through out the afternoon. Each one served the same food and drinks. At her uncle's house, we watched a home video of him and his wife getting married in 1993. It was so cool, I hope to be invited to a Mongolian wedding sometime before I leave. Everyone looked so great in their dells and it was so much fun to travel from home to home. My Mongolian was on point for the day, thankfully, and I was able to have many mini conversations with the family. At one point, they were making fun of Jen and I. They thought the faces we made after drinking the Mongolian Vodka (much stronger tasting than American, its more of a rubbing alcohol taste) were funny and that Americans are weak when it comes to drinking. So I looked at the one man who kept talking about us and said “I understand Mongolian you know.” His face got beet red and he immediately stopped talking about us. It was a great moment. Through outh the course of the night, I was offered snuff bottle after snuff bottle. It is a sign of respect when someone offers you their snuff bottle to sniff. It is filled with different scented tobacco. Usually, you would give them your bottle as they gave you theirs in this handshake pass off, but since I do not have a snuff bottle we would do the pass off with one bottle. It was a very cool feeling. We had learned about this tradition during training, but this was the first time, I actually got to put into practice the pass off I learned during training. At every house, you also receive money and a gift, which was a surprise to me. Next year, Jen and I are going to prepare buutz at her Ger and invite people over to eat and celebrate with us. After the last house, we went back to Jen's Ger to play chess with her cousin and father. It was a nice relaxing way to end the night.

2/3/14
         On Sunday night, Jen and I were invited to her supervisor's house for another Tsagaan Sar celebration with her friends. Her supervisor Dashka, had known her friends since first grade. She had one of the couples at the party pick us up on their way to it. We hopped into this big SUV around 6pm to head over to Dashka's house. When we arrived we were shocked to see what looked like a giant cement Ger. We walked inside and were blown away. It was indeed a cement Ger and it was huge! A wood stove heated it and they had no running water, but the interior was gorgeous. There was a big bed on one side and a big HD TV along another side with a big sectional couches and dining room table filled with all types of Traditional Mongolian foods. At first we were offered the milk tea and then different salads. Then the butz and meats. As we ate, her husband began pouring the first of 6 rounds of vodka shots. Everyone was so happy and having so much fun. Jen and I led the group in a Mongolian song and then one couple took over and began singing another song. They asked us to sing “Happy New Year” by ABBA, a song that they think all Americans know, yet none of us had ever heard of it until we were here in Mongolia and they played it all through out December. Jen and I knew none of the words, so we just kept singing Happy New Year, Happy New Year, over and over, until they finally joined and and began singing the verses of the song.
         During the celebration, a hair cutting ceremony broke out. Jen and I had never been to one before, so we got so excited to be apart of it. The hair cutting ceremony, marks the point at which a child is considered to have survived the dangers of infancy – between ages two and five years. The transition from babyhood was and is so important in Mongolian traditional culture. Surviving babyhood, especially for children of herding families with little access to medical facilities, is an occasion to celebrate. Before this age, parents do not cut their children's hair. The ceremony is called Daah Urgeeh. Depending on the lunar calendar, boys receive their first hair cut in their even year and girls in an odd year. Buddhist lamas or monks advise the families on the best days and best years to do the ceremony for their child. The child's parents invite over relatives, neighbors and friends to help celebrate and take part in the hair cutting ceremony. The child is moved from guest to guest carrying a scissors and small bag. Each guest takes the child into his or her lap and cuts a small lock of hair with the scissors, and then stuffs the hair into a special bag. After you cut the hair, you offer the child a gift, usually money (a symbol of good fortune). The baby whose hair we cut would stick out her hand for the money and then shove it into her dell. It was adorable. She knew exactly what to do. There is no reason or right way to cut the child's hair, so by the end of the night the hair is all different lengths and there are bald patches. So at the end of the day, once the guests are gone, the child's head is then shaved bald and their new hair begins to grow out. From this point forward their hair will be kept fashionable and you will then be able to tell the difference between boy and girl toddlers. Before this point it is almost impossible to tell the difference between the two because they all have long hair and tend to wear pinks and reds. Just as quick as the ceremony happened, it was over. Another great memory made.